Savannah is a river town, so what better way to get an overview of her harbor and port than to cruise with the River Street Riverboat Company! The 600 passenger Savannah River Queen and the 600 passenger Georgia Queen are triple-decker, red, white and blue, vessels that offer a variety of different tours all through out the harbor.
From the moment Savannah Gazette staff climbs on board Ron Higgins' five star tour bus, we notice an immediate down-home camaraderie between fellow Foody Tours guests and our amiable tour guide, Ron Higgins. Ron's bus feels roomy, with comfortable seats and flat screen televisions for viewing food history, restaurant and family photographs. With the air conditioner set to offset midmorning humidity, Ron rolls out of the Savannah Visitors Center, laughing and chatting into his microphone. Self deprecating in an "awe-shucks-it's-nothing" manner, Ron shares stories about his life. His mother may not have liked that he dropped out of Georgia Tech, but it is obvious that, for some, knowing what you want to do is worth the gamble. A graduate of UCLA film school, Savannah native Ron Higgins initiated his touring business, not surprisingly, with Savannah Movie Tours. Its success led him to pursue other interests and, eventually, establish Savannah Foody Tours, now celebrating its one-year anniversary.
Jamie Credle, director of the Davenport House, provides a glimpse into the fascinating history behind this notable mansion and, furthermore, what makes its garden so special on Valentine’s Day. Located on Columbia Square at 324 East State Street in Savannah, the Isaiah Davenport House Museum is proud to have been honored with the Preserve America Presidential Award, the highest national award honoring historic preservation achievement. (The home is open for tours daily – Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. with the last tour beginning at 4 p.m. and Sunday from 1 p.m. with the last tour beginning at 4 p.m.)
Q. The Davenport House rents the garden for weddings and special events all year round....Along those lines, I see that the home is also opening the garden on Valentine's Day and providing wedding ceremonies for a donation fee of one hundred dollars. This is such a charming idea. What should interested parties do if they are interested in the wedding? Do you anticipate a crowd? Who is administering the ceremony? Who is administering the Spanish-speaking ceremonies should they be needed?
A. The album it too fragile to be on view, but a photo of the heart is attached.
The museum has two scrapbooks from Davenport women. One belonged to Sarah Davenport. It was given to her by “a friend” in 1829. It is inscribed with that information. At that time Sarah was 40 and had lost her husband, mother and three of her children. She was managing alone with seven children. We also have Cornelia’s album which she had as a school girl of 15/16 years from the 1840. Reading the two albums is an instructive comparison –providing perspective of a woman and a girl at different phases of life. One has school girl notes and piece of corsages. The other has poetry about the wonder of Heaven and locks of hair from children, parents and a grandmother.
Q and A with Jonathan Stalcup,
author of new book Savannah Architectural Tours
(with photographs by Elizabeth Osterberger)
Q. Can you tell us a little about your early introduction to the subject of architecture? Were you fascinated with design from an early age?
Did your childhood geography play any role in the development of your interest?
A. As a child I loved playing with Lincoln logs, Lego and any other kind of building toys. I enjoyed drawing buildings and began using a computer for this purpose by the age of 10. Books were a large part of my childhood experience and with them I discovered a wide array of architecture.
Growing up in Madison County, Iowa meant many wood frame structures, limestone construction and the occasional covered bridge surrounded me. Des Moines was a short trip away and exposed me to great examples from the 19th and 20th century and even a 16th century English hall taken from the King’s House in Salisbury, England.
Q. You are a graduate of The Savannah College of Art and Design, a school that has done so much to renew and preserve the city. How did you incorporate the city in your studies? Are there any specific local buildings you studied (or worked on) while at SCAD? For those who might be interested in following in your footsteps, can you elaborate any on the master’s program you completed?
A. My degree is in design, but I was also able to take several history and preservation classes. I gave tours at the Owens-Thomas House almost the entire time I was a student and wrote a paper on the Bulloch-Habersham House. William Jay designed both houses but the later was demolished in the early 20th century. I also wrote a paper on the First Federal Savings Bank, now the Broughton Street Municipal Building. In the process I gained a greater appreciation for Functionalism and a greater knowledge of the research process necessary for the work I do now.
Q. When did you start your touring business, Architectural Tours of Savannah? What were/are some of the challenges of the job? What do you find most gratifying about the work?
A. I started putting together the tours after graduating from SCAD in 2004. While there are a few challenges, perhaps one of the worst is standing outside for 2 hours on a cold, rainy day. At the same time I meet many interesting people and you never know who will be on a tour even in bad weather.
Q.The book seems a natural extension of your work. Does the book take us deeper into the history of the city? How did you decide upon the three specific tours? What differentiates one tour from another?
A. Going with me on an actual tour connects all the buildings and periods together in a narrative and the book allows you to see many more examples from the city. I divided the Landmark and Victorian Districts into three sections and laid out a suggested tour for each. Some of the buildings I cover in person didn’t make it into the book and several of the buildings in the book aren’t on my regular route.
Q. What are a few of your favorite architectural locations in Savannah?
A. The entire Landmark District functions as an architectural location so it’s hard to pick out specific building, but of course I love the Owens-Thomas House and William Jay’s other buildings. The old County Courthouse by William Preston is constantly surprising me with new details I’ve overlooked before. There are fantastic buildings in every district including the Victorian, Streetcar neighborhoods, Chatham Crescent and Ardsley Park. It may surprise you that I’m even a fan of a small white building on the southeast corner of Abercorn and DeRenne.
Q.You must meet people from all walks of life guiding architectural tours. What’s the funniest or strangest question a tourist has ever asked you?
A. The funniest question I’ve heard from a tourist was actually directed at another docent in the Owens-Thomas house and that is, “Was the river here when the city was founded?”
Q. Are there any stories from the famous architects associated with Savannah...notes or frustrations involved with their constructions?
A. Always! Perhaps the most famous is the Custom House. Charles Blaney Cluskey lived in Savannah and the citizens expected him receive the commission. Instead it went to New York architect John Norris. Cluskey moved to Washington D.C. and Norris moved to Savannah. Less well known be even more dramatic visually is the transformation forced on William Gibbons Preston’s design for the County Courthouse. The building is now a story higher than he intended, it is covered in brick instead of the rough hewn stone he wanted and there is no longer an entrance on President Street.
Q. Do you plan to write another book?
A. I’m already working on it!
Q. What do you think about the Jepson? Some people did not welcome its style...said it didn’t mesh with the theme of the city.
A. The answer to this question could be an entire article on its own. Savannah is a living city and never halted construction after a specific style. Almost every major movement in architecture from the country’s history is represented in the Landmark District. I feel the more important questions to ask of new architecture, rather than if it fits visually are; was anything removed in order to construct it, how well does it fit within Oglethorpe’s plan of streets, squares and wards and how sustainable is it? Safdie's design for the Jepson Center is definitely a response to Oglethorpe's plan. Many of its elements are based on both the original city layout and the existing urban context. At this point I wouldn't say it's all that sustainable or "green" but it wouldn't take much to get it there.
Q. What’s on your ipod?
A. Aside from tons of music, there’s an audio tour of Millennium Park from the last time I was in Chicago.
Q. What do you think are the tourists favorite spots?
A. Bull Street and River Street seem to act like magnets for tourists. They are important promenades of course, but there is so much more to see in Savannah.
Q. Do people bug you about ghosts and pirates?
A. While some people do ask what tours they should take in the evening, the only ghosts they’re usually thinking about while they’re with me are from lost buildings.
Visit Jonathan Stalcup's website: www.ArchitecturalSavannah.com
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